Alexander McQueen made a historic homecoming at London Fashion Week after a 25‑year stint in Paris, a move that British Fashion Council chief Laura Weir called "quite a big deal for us". Creative director Seán McGirr anchored the show in the brand’s dark romantic roots, presenting devil‑horn motifs, lace corsets and chain‑mail skull dresses that underscored a return to severe tailoring.
Mulberry also marked its comeback, this time after a nine‑year absence, with Christopher Kane debuting a collection centred on the brand’s Baywater bag and a bold leather focus across coats, skirts and loafers. Weir said the season’s "big mission" was to "re‑platform London Fashion Week as not only a home for British design, but an engine for creativity and commercial growth".
According to Elektra Kotsoni, deputy director for Vogue Business and Vogue Runway, the dominant trend for the coming season is "messy girl" – a deliberate embrace of chaotic styling that counters the "clean girl" and "quiet luxury" aesthetics that have dominated social media. She advises mixing pastel tones, dreamy florals and tactile fabrics to create "unexpected clashes" that look deliberately untidy.
A second major direction is "gardencore", described by Kotsoni as a post‑pandemic evolution of cottage‑core that swaps gingham for garden‑ready pieces. Designers Erdem, Yuhan Wang and Bora Aksu paired parkas and structured trench coats with aprons, waterproof fabrics and even a watering‑can‑shaped handbag first launched by Loewe, turning gardening tools into runway statements.
The "modern goddess" look draws on Ancient Greek drapery and the visual language of Christopher Nolan’s film The Odyssey, with Pauline Dujancourt showcasing voluminous, billowing silhouettes that echo mythic deities. Kotsoni notes that these flowing, bohemian garments stand in stark contrast to the minimalist quiet‑luxury dressing observed on the streets during the week.
Colour-wise, orange emerged as the season’s most prominent hue, appearing in collections from Mulberry, Justin Cassin, Enny Atelier and Vin + Omi. While Kotsoni is cautious about whether it will become Pantone’s 2027 Colour of the Year, she confirms its growing presence in celebrity styling and runway looks. Finally, a ballet‑inspired current was highlighted by Edeline Lee, who turned a school sports hall into a stage for pointe‑walks, echoing the discipline of classical dance and forecasting a surge in ballet flats and petite shoe silhouettes for the next year.
Category: Lifestyle
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